• African American
• American  Pride
• Animals and Nature
• Aromatherapy
• Bath and Beauty
• Bird Feeders
• Bird Houses
• Cabinets
• Candles
• Candle Holders
• Curio Shelves
• Decorator Clocks
• Dolls
• Far East
• Frosted Glass
• Furniture and Furnishings
• Games and Toys
• Garden Decor
• Kiddie Korner
• Kitchen
• Knives and Swords
• Lanterns
• Medieval Legends
• Miniatures
• Mirrors
• Native American
• Nautical
• Oil Warmers
• Planters & Plant Stands
• Religious
• Sports Collectibles
• Spun Glass
• Table Lamps
• Tools
• Travel and Luggage
• Watches
• Water Fountains
• Western Heritage
• Wind Chimes
•  
•          ARTICLES
• Animals and Wildlife
• Gardening, Yard & Lawn
• Health and Fitness
• Sports

You can lay turf at almost any time of year, even when the ground is slightly frozen or during the heat of summer (although you'll need to water more in summer).  In comparison, generally spring and autumn only offer sufficiently favorable conditions for sowing most seed lawns.

Turf is especially useful where patches of lawn have become bare, weedy or damaged.  Winter use of street salt in northern regions is one major cause of damage.  Make a repair by removing the threadbare turf and prepare the soil for planting by adding a little fertilizer.  You can buy a roll or two of sod at a garden center and place it over the area.  If erosion is a problem on a slope, no matter how gentle or steep the incline, turf is the better option.  Its healthy, heavy root mat will withstand water runoff even before the lawn is fully established.

To prepare ground for a new lawn, rototill the topsoil to a depth of two to three inches.  You can usually rent tillers at your local machine and garden store to make this job much easier, after which water well and apply a fertilizer high in phosphorus.

On delivery day, water the soil to make it moist and damp but not muddy.  Turf should be put down no more than 24 hours after it has been cut at the farm, because the rolled turf will heat up and begin to biodegrade.  Inspect the turf before the delivery truck leaves.  Shake it to make sure it doesn't fall apart.  The turf should be green and the soil moist.  If you don't like the appearance, refuse to accept it and send it back.

Suppliers usually transport turf on pallets carrying 50 to 75 square yards each.  To avoid a lot of heavy lifting, ask the driver to place pallets in convenient places around your property (but don't let them drive over walkways or patios, because the combined weight of the truck and the sod can cause damage).

Begin to lay the turf along the longest straight line next to a sidewalk or driveway.  When preparing the soil, leave the soil level 3/4 to 1 inch below the level of that straight surface to make a neat, smooth transition from grass to pavement.

Lay a single row of turf and tamp it down with thick boards on which you can apply pressure to firm the turf in place.

Butt and push the sod's edges and ends against each other tightly, without stretching.  Stagger the joints in each row like bricks, and avoid gaps or overlaps.  On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope.

After lying the first row, place a plank of wood over the top so that you can stand or knell on it to lay your next row.  This spreads your weight and avoids walking on the new lawn.  Keep a quantity of sifted soil at hand for smoothing out irregularities in the surface as the turf is laid.

Use a large knife to trim the corners.  Avoid leaving small strips at the outer edges, because they won't retain moisture, which could lead to dieback.

After installation, roll the entire area with a lawn roller (available from machine and garden stores) one-third full of water to press the sod roots into the contact with the soil.

Do not allow the turf to dry out; it is essential to water it thoroughly so that it reaches the soil below.  This will prevent the turf from shrinking and forming gaps.  Allow newly laid turf untouched for three to four weeks, which will give the roots time to become established in the underlying soil.